The Art Scene in Marfa

Teardrop Trail Log: March 27, 2016

Marfa was founded as a railroad water stop in the 1880’s. The Marfa Plateau on the edge of far West Texas was known for the high grass and ranching. That is until minimalist sculptor Donald Judd fell in love with Marfa and in 1971 moved to Texas to escape the New York art scene. He bought two large hangars that had been a training facility during WWII and eventually acquired dozens of buildings. His vision was to create a new kind of museum where large collections of individual artists’ work would be on permanent display in harmony with landscape and architecture, often referred to as an anti-museum. This resulted in permanent installations of contemporary art that are among the largest and most beautiful in the world.

Marker of Marfa

Marfa has become an unlikely arts mecca. The Chinati and Judd Foundations were created after Judd’s death in 1994. Other foundations, art collectives, theaters, performance spaces and nonprofit organizations have come to town. One source describes downtown as overrun by galleries.

Art tourism soars. The artsy population grows as new waves of artists move to Marfa to live and work. Celebrities continue to make pilgrimages. Marfa is a thriving international arts destination that is about as far removed from the pretentious art scenes like New York or Amsterdam.

Marfa Texas — Architecture

Teardrop Trail Log: March 27, 2016

We had been camping for three nights in Study Butte, and decided to treat ourselves to a real bed and a shower. After checking into the hotel in Marfa, we turned our attention to the immediate problem: it was Easter Sunday; would anything be open for dinner? I also wanted a mocha if we could find one. It turned out that Jett’s Grill in the Hotel Paisano was open and accepting reservations. The prospect of a special dinner beckoned. We just had an hour or two to kill. After unhitching the Ambassador, we headed for the center of Marfa.

We found not one, but two coffeeshops in town, and we stopped at the first one: Frama. Mocha in hand, we decided to walk the area around the courthouse. The streets are very wide and flat and lay on a grid. In contrast to the other West Texas towns we had encountered so far, Marfa seemed very prosperous. There were many buildings that had been well restored, and more than a few that had been restored and modified to suite more modern purposes.

The Presidio County Courthouse, built in the Second Empire style at a cost of $60,000 in1886, is a stunning example of Texas public architecture. Directly across the street like so many other county seats, was the jail. Nearby were several churches — all beautifully maintained. St Paul’s Episcopal especially appealed to me with it’s river rock façade. Across the street was a small bungalow that had been completely renovated in a spare, mid-century modern style. It even had a Jesus Morales sculpture in the front yard. Marfa is clearly an artful place with the resources to show it.

On the other side of the courthouse, Highland Street stretched south into the distance. This is the main street of Marfa, and is lined with buildings that echo the town’s past. The Opera House, National Bank and Glascock buildings are but three examples. Most interesting to me however was the Hotel Paisano. Built in 1930 in the Spanish Revival style, and anticipating the oil boom that never came, it hosted area cattle ranchers who came to Marfa to buy and sell their herds. In June of 1955 however, Warner Bros. came to film the movie Giant. As the production’s headquarters, the Hotel Paisano hosted Elizabeth Taylor, Rock Hudson and James Dean and 150 other cast and crew.

What a surprising town to discover in West Texas. After just a cruel tease, we’ll have to go back.

: The Marfa Opera House

: Presidio Courthouse view of Highland Street

: Presidio County Jail

: Presidio County Jail detail

: St. Paul’s Episcopal Church

: Quintessential modern Marfa home with Jesus Morales Sculpture

: Marfa National Bank and Brite Building

: Marfa National Bank from the Chianti Foundation

: El Paisano Hotel

: The Glascock Building

: Marfa Public Library

: Cobb House and Whyte Building

Highland Street view of the Courthouse

Big Bend Ranch and the Hoodoos

Teardrop Trail Log: March 27, 2016

Purple Prickly Pear Cactus (Opuntia macrocentra)

We bid Lajitas farewell and headed west through Big Bend Ranch State Park. The scenic El Camino del Rio (Farm Road 170) hugs Rio Grande River and winds 23 miles through the panoramic views of the Chihuahuan Dessert where sotol, ocotillo and mesquite dot the dramatic landscape. The rugged mountains, steep canyons speak to the region’s fiery volcanic history. The Purple Prickly Pear and Strawberry Pitaya cactus, ablaze with blooms, line the colorful limestone layered bluffs. Unlike the national park, the state park encompasses a network of open range cattle ranches, a nod to Texas of old.

The Hoodoo Trail

We stopped at a parking area for photo opportunity and a short walk on the easy trail overlooking a series hoodoos, weather-carved volcanic ash, along the Rio Grande. Hoodoo is an African word that refers to the strange animal shapes of the rocks that were said to embody evil spirits. We struck up a conversation with a friendly man from El Paso on the trail who was traveling through the park. He introduced us to his traveling companion, a small mixed breed puppy whose name was Dog.

We continued down El Camino del Rio to the former Spanish mission town of Presidio. An interesting aside – it is important to pay attention driving in West Texas. Not all routes are marked. Guess the locals know where they are going. We followed what we thought was our route in Presidio and the street came to a dead end. We weren’t the only ones to miss the turn. Our friend and Dog had gone down the same street. We waved and laughed, executing a U-turn. On to Marfa.

The Lady and the Ambassador wait patiently

Lajitas

Teardrop Trail Log: March 27, 2016

My first trip to the Big Bend area came when I had been hired to work on the marketing team for Lajitas. The name is Spanish for “little flat rocks” and refers to the Boquillas limestone of the region. The office was located in Austin, but we would fly into the far West Texas resort for meetings. Sadly, we were working and not sight seeing. The only view I had of Santa Elena Canyon was a marketing photograph. This trip was my chance to see the Big Bend country.

Lajitas, twelve miles west of the Terlingua Ghost Town, had consisted of a trading post and an old cavalry post that was used as a hunting lodge. It had been bought by Houston business man, Walter Mischer in 1977. The scruffy, Old West-style resort was best known for its beer-swilling mayor, a goat named Clay Henry. Mischer had turned the town, into a modest resort with an Old West boardwalk, cheap hotel rooms, a nine hole golf course, and an RV park anchored by the 65-year old trading post became known locally as the Courthouse of South County.

Lobby at Lajitas

In 2000, Austin-telecommunications tycoon Steve Smith bought the town at public auction. Smith’s vision was to transform Lajitas into the Palm Springs of Texas and it was christened The Ultimate Hideout. Fast forward to 2007, the property was sold again.

We stopped General Store that has moved down the highway from the resort and is now home to the new mayor Clay Henry. The postcards I found that seemed familiar. They were from the time I had worked there.

Road Trip Eats

Teardrop Trail Log: March 27, 2016

We got a recommendation on where to camp with our teardrop and checked into Big Bend Resort and Adventures in the Study Butte Terlingua area, just outside the national park. The Cafe, which is open seven days a week, reminded me of so many places I’d eaten, like the Java Junction Cafe in the West Texas town where I had gone to elementary school. Formica tables, melamine plates divided for the main dish and two sides, plastic water glasses and two flavors of Tabasco on each table. The first time we walked in the door, we were greeted by a symphony of aromas that brought back memories of home and family.

One evening, the special was chicken fried steak, a tenderized cube steak coated with seasoned flour, deep fried with a crisp golden brown crust. A Texas classic. The other option was steak fingers, chicken fried steak cut into strips. Our plates arrived, the steak was plied high on a bed of french fries, served with white, peppered country milk gravy. There were also Texas-style green beans on the plate, cooked to the “unique” texture and color like so many women in my family did. Yum…. We were so focused on the food that we forgot to take a picture!

Breakfast with bacon, eggs and biscuit with white, peppered, country milk gravy.

The next morning, we decided to check out the breakfast buffet. While waiting in line to use the toaster when we spotted biscuits. Not the doughboy’s biscuits, but the light, flaky good ole comfort food fantasy biscuits. We left the buffet line for the table with bacon, scrambled eggs, biscuits and the white, peppered milk country gravy like my Mamaw used to make.

Ah, comfort food on the road!

Wildflowers in the Big Bend

Teardrop Trail Log: March 27, 2016

We were a little early for the big flush of wildflowers, but there were quite a few blooms — especially cactus — anyway. These are a few of the beauties we encountered in the Big Bend area.

: Ocotillo (Fouquieria splendens)

: Greenstem Paperflower (Psilostrophe sparsiflora (A. Gray))

: Buttercup (Ranunculus macranthus)

: Strawberry Pitaya Cactus (Echinocereus enneacanthus)

: Purple Prickly Pear Cactus (Opuntia macrocentra)

: Creosote Bush (Larrea tridentata)

Big Bend Ranch State Park

Hiking the Santa Elena Canyon

Teardrop Trail Log: March 26, 2016

After a lunch break at Castolon, we drove on to the Santa Elena Canyon entrance. The park ranger in Castolon mentioned that parking might be a problem, and we could see why as we approached the canyon. It’s a very popular attraction in the Big Bend, and a modest amount of parking. Cars were parked on either side of the entrance road for quite a distance. Luckily, someone had just left, creating a space, and we slipped right in. Another advantage of a smaller vehicle! A short walk on the road, and we entered the trail.

Switchbacks!

It starts out with a longish beach “paved” with boards which really help with the deep sand. A turn or two and you get the first unobstructed view of the canyon. Amazing. With walls up to 1500 feet directly bordering the river, the views are really dramatic. After crossing Terlinqua Creek, you begin climbing the improved trail on the U.S. side of the river. A series of switchbacks consisting of paving and stairs, form the first part of the trail.

The view from the top

With a vertical rise of several hundred feet, the 1.7 mile trail provides a decent workout, but a walking stick is helpful as the trail is on the edge of cliff faces at several points along the trail. Great views, but a little challenging for those who aren’t as sure-footed or suffer from vertigo. The paving ends once you reach the highest point of the trail.

The trail near the river

Later, the trail descends back down to the river level with sandy, grass and plant-lined paths that end up at the river. It’s very shallow here, and in places you can walk across the river to the Mexican side — many hikers do. In all, we spent 2-3 hours enjoying the canyon and taking photos. One of the most spectacular experiences I have had on the Teardrop Trail yet!

Near the end of the trail

Adobe Architecture in the Big Bend

Teardrop Trail Log: March 26, 2016

In Castolon, we encountered the Alvino House, named for Alvino Ybarra who lived there with his family from 1918 to 1957. It was originally built in 1901 by Cipriano Hernandez, who irrigated the bottomland to grow melons, pumpkins, squash and beans. To make extra income, he operated a store out of the house and tended the steam-powered cotton gin. It is the oldest adobe structure in the park, and represents the everyday life of families who lived and farmed along the Rio Grande.

South Entrance

Detail of South Entrance

East Window Detail

Interior Hallway from West Window

Interior Room from North Window

Detail of Roof

Detail of Hatch on East Side

Courtyard Entrance on North Side

Courtyard Detail

Photo of Santa Elena Canyon visible in the distance

Santa Elena Canyon is visible in the distance

Ranches in the Big Bend

Teardrop Trail Log: March 26, 2016

On our way to Castolon and Santa Elena Canyon, we encountered exhibits on two large ranches in the Big Bend that were founded between 1909 and 1929. Known as the “Sam Nail Ranch” and the “Homer Willson Ranch” (ne. Blue Creek Ranch), they varied in size from 15,000 to 28,000 acres. Both were occupied until the 1940’s , and later incorporated into the Big Bend National Park. The Homer Wilson ranch was one of the largest ranches in the United States, and the most significant one in the Big Bend Area.

Homer Wilson Ranch was the first such operation in the Big Bend area, and required self-reliance, independence, a life with moxie and strong character.

Homer Wilson Ranch on the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, Big Bend

Exploring Castolon En Route to Santa Elena Canyon

Teardrop Trail Log: March 26, 2016

We entered Big Bend National Park and drove down the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, a 30-mile paved road to the Castolon Historic District on the banks of the Rio Grande. The views were amazing. Santa Elena Canyon came into view as we drove toward the river.

Alvino House, Castolon, Texas

In the early years of the Twentieth Century, people began to farm and ranch in the area. In 1901, Cipriano Hernandez irrigated the bottomland, grew crops and operated the first store in the area out of his home. The building, known as the Alvino House, was named for Alvino Ybarra who lived there with his family from 1918 to 1957. It is the oldest known adobe structure in Big Bend National Park.

The Mexican Revolution raged in Mexico and many families fled across the border until around 1920. The violence brought the U.S. military to defend the border. Numerous camps were established by the National Guard and the Air Corps established a landing field at a nearby ranch. Originally known as Camp Santa Helena, construction of a permanent post at Costolon began in 1919 but by 1920, the Revolution was over and the buildings were never occupied.

La Harmonia, Castolon, Texas

In 1921, the La Harmonia Company Store moved into the new barracks building and served as a store and post office. In 1961, the National Park Service acquired the store and a park concessioner continues to operate it. The visitors center is also located in the historic building. It is still the center of activity in this part of the park.

The parking lot of La Harmonia overlooks the Alvino House below while Santa Elena Canyon beckons in the distance. Even so, this view doesn’t prepare us for the Canyon.

Alvino House with view of Santa Elena Canyon

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