Category Archives: Texas

Hiking in the Chisos

Photo of The Window Mountain Gap

The Window

Teardrop Trail Log: March 25, 2016

The Chisos Mountains form the core of Big Bend National Park, and have some of the most striking scenery. After driving in the day before and stopping briefly at the Park Headquarters near the Chisos, we decided to start by exploring them. It was about a 45 minute drive from our Study Butte campground, and we arrived in the late morning.

Photo of Chisos Mountains Visitors Center

The Visitors Center

There is a Visitors Center and a small store, along with a restaurant and guest housing located at the end of the road, and a 15-minute walk previews the main attraction: The Window. This geographic feature is formed by a gap between two of the mountains, and looks out over the western part of the park.

The short walk was a great tease, and after having a bite of lunch, we got some last-minute advice in the Visitors Center, filled our water bottles, and headed out on the Chisos Basin Loop — a little less than a two mile hike. We figured it would take about 2 hours.

Photo of Chisos Basin Loop Trail

The Chisos Basin Loop Trail

Listed as “moderate” difficulty, it was more of a challenge than we expected. There is quite a bit of vertical variation on the trail, and with the roughly 5000 foot elevation, I was noticing my lack of conditioning. Never mind — it’s a great hike.

The Window comes in and out of view on the trail, and you also get to see the back side of another feature: Casa Grande. I had a lot of fun taking pictures, and we both got some great images. We got back to the Visitors Center about 4.

Photo of Casa Grande in the Chisos Mountains

Casa Grande from the Chisos Basin Loop Trail

How We Planned the Big Bend Adventure on the Teardrop Trail

Photo of road atlas,maps and brochures

The 2004 Road Master Atlas, guide books, maps and brochures.

As Jim and I had discussed our next trip on the Teardrop Trail, Big Bend came up in conversation. In 2006 and 2007, I had worked onsite at the Lajitas resort, located on the Rio Grande between the Big Bend National Park and the Big Bend Ranch State park. The office was in Austin and we flew back and forth to the resort for meetings, but I had never seen the parks. What a cruel tease. So close and yet so far. Big Bend remained on my bucket list.

At last, our time had come. I love planning trips. It is like putting together a multi-dimensional puzzle. I had heard that it was a very long drive from our home at Roy Creek Ranch. Fueled by wanderlust, I began looking for options with the 2004 Road Master Atlas that had accompanied Jim on his many excursions around the country complete with velcro strips to secure the book to the dashboard of his pickup. It had showed us the way during our earlier trips on the Teardrop Trail.

For me, old habits die hard and my addiction to research that had begun when I studied art history in graduate school was alive and well. So to the Internet! I began to search in all the obvious places – state and national park websites. Other websites from organizations like Texas Beyond History, the Virtual Museum of Texas Cultural Heritage, The Texas State Historical Society, even Facebook and others. I found information on routes, campgrounds with hookups, hikes, tourist attractions, canyons, rock art, ghost towns, cafes, art galleries and much more. I began to use Google maps to determine possible routes and mileage.

I picked up a Texas State Park Guide and finally located a deluxe, 100% waterproof, plastic National Geographic Trails Illustrated map of Big Bend which unlike the Internet maps provided an overview of the entire area I could put in my pocket. Guess some of us still like to hold a map in our hands.

Madeline, a friend from college has volunteered in Big Bend for many years. We invited Madeline and her husband Jimmy to join us for lunch and planning session. From scenic drives to hikes, they provided valuable tips as only insiders can including an update on the wildflowers. One of my fellow Master Gardeners, Carol, also provided a list of favorites from past trips as well as Road Guide to backcountry dirt roads of Big Bend National Park.

As the departure date approached, all the details came into focus and reservations were made. Armed with the trusty 2004 Road Master Atlas and my copious notes, I hopped into the co-pilot seat of The Lady as the navigator and tour director. Jim started the engine and we began our adventure on this installment of the Teardrop Trail.

The Law West of the Pecos

Teardrop Trail Log: March 23, 2016

Not long after leaving Seminole State Park on our way to the Big Bend, we spotted a sign for Lantry, Texas. The Mothman had mentioned it, and Marilyn remembered that it was the home of Judge Roy Bean. Another sign mentioned a museum and we decided to see what was there.

I didn’t expect much, and the town itself looked abandoned. Some of the Adobe buildings had caved in, but there was a modern-looking building that advertised free admission to the Judge Roy Bean Museum across the street from the Langtry Post Office. Worth a look.

Inside, it turned out to be a Texas Pecos Trail visitor center, and had a small but well-curated exhibition. With a large glass case containing several artifacts, including the original Texas Statute Book he used, and several dioramas, there was plenty to capture our interest.

 

photo of The Jersey Lilley Saloon Bar

The Jersey Lilley Saloon Bar

 

Outside, you can tour the original Jersey Lilly Saloon, preserved where it stood. The “Opera House” (the Judge’s home) is a short distance away and is also open for inspection.

A beautiful cactus garden is part of the museum as well. With a well-preserved 19th-century Eclipse Windmill at it’s center, it a nice way to stretch the limbs.

photo of windmill

The Eclipse Windmill and Cactus Garden

 

Some of the ruined buildings in town turn out to have belonged to the Judge’s contemporaries and the state historical markers make for a good history lesson of Langtry and it’s original inhabitants. A great stop for the history buff!

 

photo of ruined house

The William H. Dodd House

 

The Lady and The Ambassador 

 

photo of car with trailer

They Pave the Way

Teardrop Trail Log: March 24, 2016

We’ve never named our car or teardrop. Prior to working with our friends on the Tiny House, it didn’t seem like much of an issue. They name all their vehicles however (the tiny house has been named Pandora — for all the reasons you can imagine) and it suddenly seemed like a good idea to christen ours as well. Trouble is, our vehicles do not have troublesome or quirky characteristics to help suggest a name.

So now we’re on this epic trip to Big Bend National Park in Texas. We stayed last night in the Seminole Canyon State Park (look for other posts on that) and today we continued to Big Bend. We’ve noticed on other trips that the teardrop generates interest, and by now we’ve come to expect a visitor or two inquiring how we like it, how much did it cost, can we see inside, etc, and have learned our teardrop is the best way to meet our campground neighbors. Last night was no different. One of our neighbors struck up a conversation around the teardrop, and suddenly we had two new good friends. Jim (good name, that) and his wife Suzanne are from Indiana, and he’s a wildlife photographer. Specifically, he is interested in moths and calls himself “The Moth Man.” They were going into Langtry, Texas last night to try for some specific moths that are native to the area.
Today, we stopped in Langtry ourselves — the home of Judge Roy Bean, the The Law West of the Pecos. Interesting place, but while we were touring the adjoining cactus garden (amazing!), I had a conversation with another guest who was interested in our teardrop. He was from Minnisota, and had noticed my Case/IH hat. Another pleasant encounter with a total stranger.

Later today, when we stopped for gas in Sanderson, Texas, we were approached by yet another curious person. Ed and his wife split their time between Sanderson and Rochester, New York, and wanted to know all the standard stuff about teardrops. Of course Marilyn spent 17 years living there, so we were off and running with a new friend.

While driving away from Uncle’s (the station in Sanderson), Marilyn commented on what a good ambassador our teardrop was — and we realized he’d been named. Shortly after, I realized that the Mazda has been such a good and reliably comfortable car on our trips — and not without her own bit of flash — that she was a real lady.

So now we have names for them both: The Lady and the Ambassador.

Road Trip Eats

Dairy Queen, Stratford, Texas

Dairy Queen, Stratford, Texas

Marilyn, June 24

What’s a road trip without road food – right? We drove across the flat landscape at the top of the Panhandle and pulled into Stratford, just a stone’s throw away from the Oklahoma line. The water tower and the massive bank of grain elevators, called the tin man and silos dominated the skyline and across the highway was unmistakable sign for DQ, a comforting sight in the middle of nowhere. Dairy Queen held special memories for me. As a child in Eldorado, Texas we used to pile in the car and go for soft-serve cones during the hot summers. Jim pulled into the parking lot, we opened the door and indulged in the familiar sights, sounds and tastes. In addition to the DQ menu, there was Orange Julius, another memory from childhood. Decisions, decisions, decisions. Ahhhh…..

 

 

On the Road Again

Teardrop Leaving Palo Duro

Teardrop Leaving Palo Duro

Mirror Shot

Mirror Shot

Jim, June 24:

Loaded up, ready to go. Having arrived in the dark, we didn’t get to see much of the park, so we took a little time to sight-see before hitting the road. Beautiful place, well worth a trip back. It’s on our list for a dedicated trip. The campsites are in the canyon, and the canyon isn’t visible from the park entrance. I’m sure lots of folks drive by on the highway and never realize there is something really special just a few minutes away. It also means that it takes 20-30 minutes of twisty-windy roads to get into or out of the camp sites. Great sightseeing.

Interstate Vista

Interstate Vista

After leaving the canyon, we passed through Amarillo (with a successful stop for Starbuck’s!) before getting back on the road. Several hours of straight and flat travel lay ahead.

… And the Rain Came.

Marilyn, June 24:

Camp Palo Duro in the Rain

Camp Palo Duro in the Rain

The sky turned from overcast to a full-fledged downpour as we finished breakfast under the canopy. Water started to collect and reshape the shelter. It was time to break camp and pack up as puddles collected around the campsite. Each time we pushed up on the canopy, large amounts of water ran off. We had to disassemble the kitchen as quickly as we could. Stashing the stove in the hatch. The two plastic totes with fold-over lids I had used for condiments and larger items had filled with water. We folded the wet chairs and forced them into stuff sacks. Wet items were thrust into garbage bags. As we loaded the trailer with all our wet gear, it became apparent that we needed a plan to deal with rain. We did our best to dry off and hopped in the Mazda to depart.

A Canyon Breakfast

 

Breakfast in Palo Duro

Breakfast in Palo Duro

Jim, June 24:

Although the sunrise was beautiful, the sky was mostly overcast and it wasn’t long before it started to rain. I quickly set up the canopy so we could enjoy breakfast, and Marilyn made short work of preparing the food. As was clear from the mocha incident of the day before, I care about my coffee. Most coffee that is available on the road is pretty poor, so we travel with an Italian stovetop espresso maker. We also carry a supply of dark roast sumatra from Anderson’s Coffee in Austin (best in the city!) They work great on camp stoves and I set out brewing my morning espresso. Add Bacon, Eggs, Toast, and Jam, and you have a breakfast that is a far cry from the chuckwagon of olden days!

 

Breakfast and Coffee

Breakfast and Coffee

Glorious Sunrise

Glorious Sunrise

Glorious Sunrise

Marilyn, June 24:

Our first night in the teardrop. We slept soundly. The birds began to sing as our sleepy eyes opened. We had arrived on a black, star-less night but looking out the tiny window, I caught a glimpse of the breath-taking colors illuminating the canyon walls. What a glorious sunrise. We were IN the canyon looking up at the picturesque formations. It was a first for me. I had been used to viewing canyons from the rim. This was a dynamic change of scenery from the flat vistas of the Panhandle. As we climbed out of the teardrop, our conversation turned to coming back soon.

Palo Duro Canyon Walls

Palo Duro Canyon Walls