Category Archives: History

On to Lexington

Teardrop Trail Log: June 14, 2016

photo of stuffed bear in Pat's Army Store

Pat’s Army Store Inmate

I was introduced to historic Lexington, Missouri when I was in the neighborhood for a presentation in June on my cookbook – Canning, Pickling and Freezing, with Irma Harding. The meeting of the Missouri Cattlewomen was held at the historic Elms Resort and Spa in Excelsior Springs. I researched the Resort built in 1898, and discovered it was “haunted.” I had previous experience with haunted hotels when I worked in Santa Fe so I felt right at home. Actually, the hotel had several interesting guests including Al Capone and Harry S. Truman. It was an amazing experience. My talk, “Eat, Drink, and Pickle!” was at VanTill’s Family Farm & Vineyard. I fell in love with the area and the people.

River Reader

As we left Kansas City, I was looking at the atlas and Lexington was only about 50 miles away. We were so close, I suggested we take a side trip so Jim could meet my friends and see Lexington where there is lot’s of history from the Civil War. After parking the Lady and the Ambassador, we stopped in at Pat’s Army Store, located in an old Baptist Church. Next, we stopped by the Old Trails Region to see Marsha Corbin, my host. I met Marsha at last year’s Red Power Round Up where she’d heard my presentation. She was just down the street for a meeting, so we proceeded to say hello. Next stop was one of the most amazing independent bookstores, River Reader owned by Pat and Gary Worth. I had a great book signing at River Reader. Pat offered a couple of bottles of cold water on the warm day and It was nice to connect everyone with Jim.

We left River Reader and Jim was taken by the scenic beauty of the town. The Greek Revival Lafayette County Courthouse built in 1847 and other historic buildings led the town to bill itself as the “Athens on the Missouri” and became subjects for his photography.

: The old Baptist Church

: Second Baptist Church

: Lafayette County Courthouse

: One of many antique stores

: Lexington Façades 1

: Lexington Façades 2

: Lexington façades 3

: Lexington Façades 4

The Animals of Balmorhea

Teardrop Trail Log: March 30, 2016

Balmorhea is a unique desert environment because of the San Solomon Springs. Currently flowing at the rate 15 million gallons per day, this artesian spring is fed by an underground aquifer and rainwater from the nearby Davis Mountains. At a constant 72ºF – 76ºF, it makes for a brisk swim in the nearly 2-acre pool before flowing through a series of canals to the restored 3-acre Cienegas (spanish for wetlands). Then it’s on to irrigate a variety of crops from cotton to cantaloupes in the over 10,000-acre project. Chlorine-free, its crystal-clear 25-foot-deep central pool is a favorite with divers.

Comanche Spring Pupfish

Camanche Springs Pupfish

Originally dredged to improve irrigation flow in the 1936 Civilian Conservation Corps project that created the park, the Cienegas were partially restored in 1995 and then enlarged in 2011 in order to protect habitat for endangered species.

Pecos Gambusia

The Comanche Springs Pupfish and Pecos Gambusia, both listed as endangered, make Balmorhea their home. The Pupfish can be found in the pool, while they both can be found in the restored marshland.

American Coot (Fulica americana)

Many other species make their home here, including the American Coot, Red-eared Slider turtle, Texas Spiny Soft-shell turtle and a variety of other fish and birds. The Cienegas are quite special. A large, covered wooden deck overlooks the marshland, and there is a lot to see. With the crystal water, you can see all the way to the bottom, and watch the fish and turtles motor around the pool. Not a bad way to spend an hour or two. There is also an underwater viewing port, where you can watch the proceedings from an underwater perspective.

Cienegas with Red Eared Slider and Texas Spiney Softshell Turtle, and Pecos Gambusia

Some of animals are quite bold, and we had frequent visits from a Greater Roadrunner and several Desert Cottontails. I guess regular exposure makes us seem benign, and the roadrunner spent time with us each morning, looking around as if to say: “What’s for breakfast?”

: Accelerati Incredibilus (Geococcyx californianus)

: Sylvilagus audubonii (What’s Up Doc?)

Balmorhea, A Cool Oasis in the High Desert

Teardrop Trail Log: March 28, 2016

We headed north from Fort Davis to Balmorhea State Park. The park’s name comes from four men’s surnames: E.D. Balcom, H.R. Morrow, Joe Rhea and John Rhea – Bal-mor-hea. They formed an irrigation company in the early 20th century.

The park is located on the San Solomon Springs. In 1849, the springs were known as Mescalero Springs for the Mescalero Apache who watered their horses here. The 1.75-acre pool with 3.5-million gallons of crystal-clear freshwater was built around the springs, one of the largest artesian, spring-fed pools in the world. It’s now considered one of the best swimming holes in Texas. The water is 72 to 76 degrees year-round and the constant flow of water means no chlorination is required.

Spanish Revival Architecture

The Civilian Conservation Corps built the pool during FDR’s New Deal between 1936 and 1941. In addition to the pool, they built barracks, a concession building, two bath houses and San Solomon Courts using local limestone. They also made adobe bricks for the construction.

Our campsite

I’d spoken with several folks from the park while we traveled and it was nice to put names and faces with the voices. They were very welcoming. The campground is a small jewel with only 34 sites. We backed the Ambassador into our site and began to settle into the magic that is Balmorhea. We took a stroll around the pool. There’s a high diving board and the shallow end has a concrete floor. We forgot to bring bathing suits on this trip so we will be coming back to Balmorhea.

Camp Inn Teardrop

The next day we headed off to the McDonald Observatory, another must-do on anyone’s West Texas visit. Our return to Balmorhea was like coming home. It’s always fun to check out the other campers and trailers in the campground. There was another teardrop, a Camp Inn. We also caught up with another couple we’d met in the campground outside Big Bend. We noticed their distinctive Scamp trailer with its unusual aerodynamic design near the showers. On our last day, Moth Man and his wife, the couple we met in Seminole Canyon, stopped by to Balmorhea for a short visit. We have made many good friends on the Teardrop Trail.

photo of sunset over Balmorhea campground

The magic …

Fort Davis National Historic Site

Teardrop Trail Log: March 28, 2016

We left the county seat, Fort Davis. Debating whether to stop by the McDonald Observatory or not, and saw a sign announcing the Fort Davis National Historic Site. With plenty of time for the hour or so trip to Balmorhea, we decided to stop.

I wasn’t prepared for what we discovered. The site is far enough away from the road that we didn’t see it’s expanse. Billed as the largest partially restored historic fort in the United States, it is immense with a variety of historic buildings in various states of preservation. We stopped in the visitor’s center and spent a few minutes looking through the exhibit. With a nice overview, and interest whetted, we went on to the main event.

Founded in 1854 by Lieut. Col. Washington Seawell, six companies of the eighth U.S. Infantry, and named for the then Secretary of War, Jefferson Davis, it was abandoned by federal troops in April 1861 at the outset of the Civil War. It was one of many posts along the San Antonio to El Paso Road, a 600-mile journey along the southern route to California. It helped bring peaceful settlement of the region between it’s reoccupation in 1867 and it’s deactivation in 1891. One surprising fact: Except for a mainly white officer corps, the post was largely manned after 1870 by buffalo soldiers.

First stop, a restored enlisted barracks where we met one of the site volunteers. This was fortunate, since the restored interiors are normally viewed from glassed off entrances. He offered to show us around the barracks. What an amazing step back in time. The building had been carefully restored, complete with period furnishings, weaponry and personal effects. The buildings take advantage of cooling afforded by the adobe brick construction and natural ventilation. Uniforms were a mix of the practical and fanciful. The parade dress uniform was patterned after european models and worn regularly — even in the heat of summer. More practical uniforms were worn for the more mundane work details including the construction of 91 miles of telegraph line west from the fort.

The Commissary served as the local grocery and general store. Supplies for the 500 or so military and their families, as well as other nearby military posts had to be freighted by wagon train from San Antonio. The 400-mile trip took between five and six weeks, so careful planning was essential for the post’s safety and effectiveness. The commissary has been partially restored with example goods lining the shelves, and first-person descriptions of daily fare.

Several interesting exhibits are in the Post Hospital where care for sick and injured soldiers and family members was provided. The building has been partially restored, with examples of the ongoing archeological work visible within. Behind the post hospital, foundations from the original, 1854-1861 fort are visible. It was more modest in scope, and dwarfed by the later version.

Officers and their families were housed in a variety of single and shared quarters along Officers’ Row. One shared quarters building has been stabilized with a restored wooden porch — from there it is possible to peer into the unrestored interior. A couple of single family officer’s quarters have been fully restored with furnishings and personal effects similar to the enlisted men’s quarters mention earlier.

In total, Marilyn and I spent several hours touring the grounds and enjoying the exhibits. The frontier and late nineteenth century and very real here. In the gallery below, I’ve included several of the exhibit signs — they recount the history better than I can. If you’re in West Texas near Marfa, Fort Davis or Balmorhea, this is a worthwhile stop.

: Supporting the Army

: Parade Grounds

: Partially restored enlisted men’s quarters

: A gattling gun

: Restored enlisted men’s quarters

: Typical Uniform Elements

: Commissary (partially restored)

: Post Commissary

: Commissary Interior

: Supplying the Garrison

: The San Antonio — El Paso Road

: Freight wagon

: Unrestored enlised men’s quarters foundation

: Shared Officers’ Quarters

: Post hospital

: Post hospital ward

: in the shadow of the mountain

: What fell through the cracks?

: Artifacts

: Surgeon’s Office

: Unrestored post hospital ward

: Officers’ Row

: Officer’s Quarters Kitchen

: Perfectly lined up

: Apache Wikiup

Married officer’s quarters interior

Bachelor officer’s quarters interior

Civilan contractors

Dining — Marfa Style

The Buffalo

Teardrop Trail Log: March 27, 2016

We treated ourselves to dinner Jett’s Grill in the Hotel Paisano, located just one block from the courthouse. We entered through the historic hotel. The lobby is appointed with a beautiful tan and brown tile floor and ornate wrought iron light fixtures with mica panel inserts around glass globes, remnants from the past. Buffalo and longhorn trophies gaze down from the white washed walls.

Jett’s Grill

Described by Vogue Magazine as the place for a proper sit-down meal, Jett’s offers patio dining in the picturesque courtyard complete with a four-tiered fountain. Our reservation was for inside. While cooking in the galley of the teardrop and eating in the great outdoors is an adventure, we welcomed the chance to relax with a white table cloth and a littleTexas flair.

Grilled Salmon over Asparagus and Pasta

We had in a lovely sauvignon blanc. I enjoyed grilled salmon over asparagus and pasta. Jim indulged his culinary wild side with

Chile Rellaño

Chile Rellaños, long green chili peppers stuffed with Asadero cheese coated with a tortilla chip crust. Avocado cream sauce. Topped with Pico de Gallo. Served over rice.

We splurged and split a Crème Brŭlée.

Crème Brŭlée

Adobe Architecture in the Big Bend

Teardrop Trail Log: March 26, 2016

In Castolon, we encountered the Alvino House, named for Alvino Ybarra who lived there with his family from 1918 to 1957. It was originally built in 1901 by Cipriano Hernandez, who irrigated the bottomland to grow melons, pumpkins, squash and beans. To make extra income, he operated a store out of the house and tended the steam-powered cotton gin. It is the oldest adobe structure in the park, and represents the everyday life of families who lived and farmed along the Rio Grande.

South Entrance

Detail of South Entrance

East Window Detail

Interior Hallway from West Window

Interior Room from North Window

Detail of Roof

Detail of Hatch on East Side

Courtyard Entrance on North Side

Courtyard Detail

Photo of Santa Elena Canyon visible in the distance

Santa Elena Canyon is visible in the distance

Ranches in the Big Bend

Teardrop Trail Log: March 26, 2016

On our way to Castolon and Santa Elena Canyon, we encountered exhibits on two large ranches in the Big Bend that were founded between 1909 and 1929. Known as the “Sam Nail Ranch” and the “Homer Willson Ranch” (ne. Blue Creek Ranch), they varied in size from 15,000 to 28,000 acres. Both were occupied until the 1940’s , and later incorporated into the Big Bend National Park. The Homer Wilson ranch was one of the largest ranches in the United States, and the most significant one in the Big Bend Area.

Homer Wilson Ranch was the first such operation in the Big Bend area, and required self-reliance, independence, a life with moxie and strong character.

Homer Wilson Ranch on the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, Big Bend

The Law West of the Pecos

Teardrop Trail Log: March 23, 2016

Not long after leaving Seminole State Park on our way to the Big Bend, we spotted a sign for Lantry, Texas. The Mothman had mentioned it, and Marilyn remembered that it was the home of Judge Roy Bean. Another sign mentioned a museum and we decided to see what was there.

I didn’t expect much, and the town itself looked abandoned. Some of the Adobe buildings had caved in, but there was a modern-looking building that advertised free admission to the Judge Roy Bean Museum across the street from the Langtry Post Office. Worth a look.

Inside, it turned out to be a Texas Pecos Trail visitor center, and had a small but well-curated exhibition. With a large glass case containing several artifacts, including the original Texas Statute Book he used, and several dioramas, there was plenty to capture our interest.

The Jersey Lilley Saloon Bar

Outside, you can tour the original Jersey Lilly Saloon, preserved where it stood. The “Opera House” (the Judge’s home) is a short distance away and is also open for inspection.

A beautiful cactus garden is part of the museum as well. With a well-preserved 19th-century Eclipse Windmill at it’s center, it a nice way to stretch the limbs.

The Eclipse Windmill and Cactus Garden

Some of the ruined buildings in town turn out to have belonged to the Judge’s contemporaries and the state historical markers make for a good history lesson of Langtry and it’s original inhabitants. A great stop for the history buff!

The William H. Dodd House

Hit or Miss Engines

Jim, September 15:

You never know what you’ll find on the Teardrop Trail, and the Red Power Roundup in Sedalia, Missouri was no exception. While looking at the expected tractors and other IH memorabilia, I discovered a assortment of “hit or miss” engines. They were first available around 1890 from various manufacturers including International Harvester (after 1902) for use in pumping water, generating electricity and cutting firewood. The video shows models spanning several decades and demonstrates the “hit or miss” behavior and resulting name.

They fire every few cycles and rely on a large flywheel to maintain a relatively constant speed. Producing a small amount of horsepower relative to their weight and size, they were displaced by newer internal combustion engines by the mid-20th century, although they are still desirable for some low-speed (250 rpm or so) applications like oil-field pump jacks. International Harvester produced a variety of hit or miss engines, and the video shows three well preserved and and functioning models.

This display of engines was a surprise to me — I hadn’t seen this many working hit or miss engines in one place before. The engine owners were on hand to answer questions and I learned a lot about this part of our Harvester Heritage. Fun!

Kitchen to Go – Road Food

Marilyn, June 14:

I love to cook! I was a chef at a dude ranch and have been responsible for cuisine on many long distance backpack trips. Now it was time to create a new version of a moving kitchen. I had seen a variety of galley configurations in teardrop trailers that ranged from the highly customized with many built in niches to house everything, to a rear hatch covering a simple space. Ours was the simple space so it was time to become very creative. I started rounding up suggestions from the blogs of dedicated RVers as well as full time teardroppers. One blogger’s words echoed in my mind – being in the middle of nowhere is not the time to forget the can opener or have wine and no corkscrew. Another blogger warned not to forget the practical things like rubber bands, duct tape and super glue. We found a Coleman camp stove, soft-sided sink, a folding rack to hold it all then tried it out in the living room.

Trailer kitchen in the living room.

Some of my backpacking equipment and skills came in handy since storage was at a premium. Finding the necessities – the smallest knives, nifty gadgets, cutting boards, measuring spoons and bowls – that could be used for several purposes. The ability to pack and unpack everything quickly was also a consideration. Then I began to think about menus. Shopping in the bulk section was great. Small plastic bags took the place of bulky bottles. I began with two plastic boxes with lids (you’ll discover why the lids are important later) and began organizing, nestling utensils, dishes and all our other accessories. We recycled two other plastic totes with fold-over lids for larger items. At last, we were ready for meals on wheels and it was time to hit the road.

Utensils and Supplies – a place for everything

Pots, Pans and Wine Glasses

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