Category Archives: Getting Ready

Redecorating

Marilyn, August 1:

Before leaving in June, we visited the Central Texas Gathering of the Southwest Teardrops & Vintage Trailers in Krause Springs. As we met new friends and toured their unique trailers, Jim and I started thinking about how we could spruce up the inside of the Ambassador. We’d been more functionally oriented so we started discussing decor on the way home from the gathering that evening.

The new pillows

First item on the list was a new mattress. Our mattress topper just wasn’t helping create sweet dreams. After asking around, an Internet search for futon mattresses ensued. Based on the searches, we created a list of stores showing inventory. This was followed by what turned out to be several disappointing, unsuccessful visits to the brick and mortar universe. Next stop – Ikea for a futon mattress. While at Ikea, we also discovered a really cool rug and runner to add color to our campsite.

Next, we toured our house to see if we could find anything to fancy-up and add a bit more comfort to the Ambassador’s interior. I had two European square pillows with hand-made designer fabric covers that were in an upstairs closet. They fit perfectly in the Ambassador! Jim was happy because the new pillows added a new dimension to lounging inside. Plans call for adding more decor as we make discoveries on the Teardrop Trail.

Planning Our Latest Adventure on the Teardrop Trail

Marilyn, July 25:

We got a jump start on this year’s trip as we pulled out of the Missouri State Fairgrounds in June of 2015. Someone mentioned that camping spaces would be very limited for the 2016 Red Power Round Up, so upon our return to Roy Creek Ranch, I got online and booked reservations for one of the coveted campsites.

I love planning trips and I’ve never been one to wing it. It is inspiring, like putting together a multi-dimensional puzzle. Making dreams reality. I started by making list of places we might want to visit on the route from Roy Creek Ranch to Red Power Round Up in Union Grove Wisconsin and the adventure home. I used Google Maps to get the distances between points of interest, inviting restaurants and camping possibilities. Then we have an idea of how long it will take to get to the next stop and the possible route. This list helps to answer the question, “Are we there yet?” Yes, adults still ask this time-honored question.

The next step was to create a list of optional activities in the states we’d be driving through. I’d put out an inquiry on Facebook to get recommendations from friends for must-see attractions. An extensive Internet search followed, investigating possibilities along the route. I compiled a list of activities and points of interest. The list included Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, Taliesin, House on the Rock, Pullman National Monument and more.

Road atlas detail

In the past, we used Jim’s well-loved 2004 Road Master Atlas to plan our trips on the Teardrop Trail, but this year, he got us a New National Geographic Road Atlas, Adventure Edition. We sat down with the with the new atlas and sticky notes to mark the points of interest along our route.

I revisited many of the check lists I found online to make sure that we had everything for this trip. On the trip to West Texas, someone had forgotten a pair of flip flops. Some of our other treks have taken us off the retail track, making replacing forgotten items a challenge if not impossible.

As the departure date approached, details came into focus and reservations were made for the first two legs of our trip, but this would be a different kind of excursion down the Teardrop Trail – one without a complete itinerary. Another travel blogger ascribed luck as an important aspect of the trip. After our stop in Kansas City, we would be planning as we traveled. Each stop at a visitors’ center or tourism office could bring a wealth of new maps, magazines and opportunities. It would now be plan-as-you-go with a dash of serendipity thrown in.

Travel brochures

Easy Leveling with an Atwood Stabilizer Jack

Jim, July 31:

The new storage box and galley table would certainly improve our setup and strike time, but I was sure it could be improved a little more. When we drive into a campsite, one of the first jobs is to level the trailer. Up to now, I used two scissor jacks (one under each rear corner of the trailer) and that worked well enough. Scissor jacks are fiddly and can be hard to use. They certainly aren’t quick. The light-weight jacks had to be extended by hand until they could be wedged under the trailer because they would “dance around” while turning the adjustment screw. They couldn’t be stored under the trailer. I thought we could do better.

Atwood Stabilizer Jack — Deployed

Looking around at other RVs, I learned about a “stabilizer jack”. Intended for leveling a trailer and designed to store under it, they seemed to fit the bill. A quick cruise on Amazon, and we had a candidate — the Atwood 82301stabilizer jack. I ordered a set of three. One for the tongue and one for each rear corner.

The Atwood stabilizer jacks can be either bolted or welded onto the trailer. My friend Jason at Vintage Motor Car agreed that welding would be best. A day or two later, they were installed. A little black spray paint, and the job was done.

Atwood Stabilizer Jack — Retracted

The jacks hide under the trailer when not in use, and only take a couple inches of ground clearance. Deployment is easy. Pull into the site, swing the two rear jacks down into the locked position and then deploy the front stabilizer jack the same way. The trailer sits pretty low to the ground, so occasionally I dig a little ground out from under the jack before it swings into place.

Jack handle in use

The final step is using the steel handle to adjust each jack’s height while watching a bubble level. The recommended jack handle (purchased separately) is rather short and will only install in the jack if all the holes are perfectly aligned — not always the case. A “heel” pry bar with a tapered end is both longer and will work with less perfectly aligned holes. The 16-inch pry bar (purchased in a set of four for $12 from a Red Power Roundup tool vendor) was the perfect size. Amazon has a similar product from about $25.

Pry Bar Set

Each stabilizer jack has a 650-pound work capacity and a 1000-pound support capacity. They measure 11 1/2-inches retracted and extend to 17 3/4-inches. I carry an assortment of wood blocks from 1/2-inch to 3 1/2-inches in thickness to account for sloping campsites. Also, I carry one scissors jack for unforeseen circumstances from pulling a stuck trailer hitch to changing a tire. That satisfies my “belt and suspenders (and belt)” approach. So far, we’ve been able to meet every camping challenge!

Pry Bar vs. Atwood jack handle

New Countertop for the Galley

Jim, July 24:

Trailer kitchen in the living room.

The Problem

Over the last several trips, I realized we were spending a lot of time setting up and striking each campsite. The lack of storage was corrected with the tongue box, but the Timber Creek Camp Kitchen took too long to set up. We needed another surface for the stove. I began to think about a counter that would hang on the galley edge.

There were several criteria. It had to attach with little modification and compliment the style of the teardrop. It had to store easily and be strong enough to support a two-burner stove with pans and skillets. And of course, it had to set up quickly. The raised lip at the back end of the galley could be used as an attachment point, but without legs supporting the other end because of the trip hazard. The best solution was to cantilever the counter with support from the underside of the trailer. Time’s a wastin’!

The Build

Initial mockup

I cut a 21-inch by 26-inch piece of birch plywood. This was the largest surface that would mount in the hatch opening without interfering with the galley storage. It was long enough to support our camp stove with a propane bottle. Next, I cut 9-inch pieces of 3/4-inch steel strap and bent one end to form an “L”. These fit into the gap between the galley countertop and hatch lid while attaching to the plywood. Using a couple of clamps, I mocked up the proof of concept. Success!

Trial fit of support pattern

Now for the cantilever supports. I wanted a design that would fit our teardrop. I drew a shape on a scrap of masonite and cut it with a saber saw. A trial fit with the table mockup looked promising, but I would have to match the curving shape of the trailer exactly. Several rounds of cut and fit were needed. Houston, we have a pattern.

I used the pattern to cut two pieces of plywood. Time for an edge treatment. I routed a 1/2 by 3/8-inch rebate in a piece of birch 1 by 2. This would cover the plywood laminations on the edge of the table, flush with the top. A table saw and a 45º sled made quick work of cutting the birch edges to length. A quick glue-up and I was done for the night.

: Initial assembly

: Detail of edge treatment

: All glued up

Let’s Finish This

The interior of our teardrop is varnished, and the wood and polished aluminum go well together. I sanded all the table parts and coated them with boiled linseed oil. We were running short of time before our trip, and the oil would protect the wood. I’ll add a more durable finish later.

: Folded table will travel in the galley

: Linseed oil finish

: Level and plumb

Linseed oil dried, I mounted the supports to the table with piano hinges. Another trial fit, and all was well. Folded, the table fits flat on top of the galley storage for transport. Finally, I drilled holes through the steel straps into the galley edge and threaded them for thumb screws. This prevents the table from detaching while in use. Level and plumb, the galley was ready!

Ready for camping!

Marine-Style 12 Volt Outlets in Our Teardrop

Jim, July 23:

One thing we learned on our trip to Big Bend, we needed more power outlets! With two smart phones, an iPad, a laptop, two cameras and other low-voltage doodads and geegaws, the two 12-volt and two 120-volt outlets that came with the trailer were simply not enough. Multi-outlet USB chargers helped, but added to the clutter in the cabin — especially at night. Also, the existing outlets were located on the aft interior and galley walls. Not convenient for charging while reading in bed.

Galley outlets

We had been working on a friend’s tiny house, and learned that the universe of 12-volt equipment has greatly expanded in the last couple of years. The tiny house was equipped with a marine power center, and offered 120/240-volt and 12-volt service. Just what was needed while at shore or underway. We equipped the tiny house entirely with 12-volt lighting, and easily found fixtures, light bulbs and other 12-volt outlets. With all the interest in solar power the number and quality of such devices is rapidly improving, and a trip to the Amazon store yielded several marine-style USB, cigar lighter and battery monitor fixtures.

USB power outlet detail

Fortunately, the Ambassador has hollow wood-paneled walls, so expanding the existing 12-volt wiring wasn’t too difficult. I simply replaced the two 12-volt cigar outlets with double and triple-gang devices on the back wall of the cabin and galley, while adding a pair of USB outlets on the forward wall under the cabin light. The marine system is nice because the 2 or 3 position panels can accept any combination of outlets and monitoring.

Now we can read in bed while charging our iPhones and other USB and cigar-lighter-based devices. Perfect!

: Interior — looking aft

: Interior — looking forward

: Cabin light and USB power outlet

A Solar-Powered Beer Cooler

Jim, May 31:

Tiny, Solid-state cooler

We were recently invited to the Southwest Teardrop & Vintage Trailer meet-up at Krause Springs and knowing there would be some cool trailers there, I wanted to add something unique to ours. Solar power is that not that common on teardrops yet, so it seemed a possibility. A couple of years ago, we purchased a little solid-state cooler from The Home Depot. It cost less than $30, and was shaped like an old Coca-Cola Machine. A similar product is available from Amazon, but without the Coke branding. Best of all, it could run on 120-volt or 12-volt power. Would our solar panel power it for a day?

Photo of the interior of a beer cooler with bottles and cans

Cools a 6-pack

We’ve traveled with the little cooler several times, and I routinely use it in my shop. It will hold a 6-pack in cans, or 4 short glass bottles. I’ve always got it filled with “cool ones”. I had never tried it on 12-volt power though. We also have a solid-state ice chest from Igloo, and it’s always in the car — perfect for keeping groceries cool during the hour-long trip out to the ranch. It draws about 6 amps at 13 to 14 volts (car running), so it’s not super power efficient. We once drained the car battery by forgetting to unplug it while the car sat in a parking lot for several hours. I guess that’s why I hadn’t ever tried the beer cooler on solar. Didn’t want to drain the battery.

Solar panel is removable

This was a different situation. Although the rig would be sitting idle for several hours during the meet-up, we would have sun available, and that might make it practical. I designed the solar panel to be removable, so it can be located in full sun while connected to the trailer electrical system (sitting in the shade) via a 20-foot cable. That should be sufficient to power the cooler and a a few other accessories during the day.

Well, long story short, it worked. Since we weren’t staying for the night, the Lady and the Ambassador stayed hitched and I located the solar panel on her windshield. The extension cable just made it to the normal panel connection on the trailer, and the cooler was plugged into the galley. By the afternoon, I had cold beer. The solar panel kept up just fine in spite of the partially cloudy day and occasional rain. Hmmm, now what else might we be able to power?

Current Galley

Solar Power on the Teardrop Trail

In an earlier post, we described a simple solar system for the our teardrop. With only a 15-watt capacity, we needed to upgrade and did so last year. We’ve gotten some questions about our solar power installation on the teardrop, and I wanted to share what we’ve done. This a work in progress, but during our recent Big Bend trip, we never hooked the trailer up to shore power (aka 120 volt hookups) and used solar power almost exclusively. It’s important to state our goals however, we didn’t intend to replace shore power. Instead, we wanted to extend the practical range of our trailer, making it possible to use primitive campsites for days at a time. This is where solar power can really shine (pun intended) on a small trailer.

There are several elements to a solar system. At minimum, a solar panel, a storage battery and some kind of charge controller are needed. Additions include 120/240-volt capabilities like battery chargers and inverters. Our system is almost exclusively 12-volt. With it we run lighting and have the ability to charge multiple devices such as smart phones, tablets, a laptop and digital cameras. We even have the ability to run a few high current 12-volt appliances like an electric tea kettle intermittently. Our trailer has a 7500 BTU air conditioner (this is Texas after all), but that must be run on shore power.

photo of battery, charger and charge controller

Charge controller in place

Broadly speaking, there are two types of charge controllers: Maximum Power Point Transfer (MPPT) and Pulse Width Modulation (PWM). Both have their advantages, but a PWM controller won in cost and efficiency for our particular application: hot, sunny climates and systems of 170 watts or less. An article with a more complete comparison may help with your decision.

Here’s what we ended up with:

Renogy® 100-Watt Monocrystalline Bendable Solar Panel (update: no longer available, but this panel is similar)
Renogy® 10-Amp PWM Solar Charge Controller (update: no longer available, but this controller is similar)
Interstate Group 27 Marine Deep Cycle/Starting Battery (available from Costco)
Jensen JMP-800 75-Watt Power Inverter (plugs into a 12 volt outlet for occasional use)

Fortunately, our trailer was built with dual wiring: 12 and 120-volt. There is 120-volt power in both the galley and interior, and a 12-volt outlet is available in the interior. I added a 12-volt feed into the interior cabinets to power a Ten-Tec Triton II amateur radio. Most of the installation work involved mounting the solar panel on the trailer’s roof. The charge controller was mounted in the galley storage adjacent to the battery. The trailer was already equipped with a small charger, and it charges the battery when we’re hooked up to shore power. The solar panel can be removed from the roof and located away from the trailer using an extension cord. This way, we can park the trailer in a shady spot while the panel is located in the sun. The photos show the mounting screw installation process.

: Tapping into the aluminum skin with a double-ended screw

: Re-mounting the screw with marine epoxy

Incandescent Bulb

The trailer came with 12-volt automotive light fixtures and incandescent bulbs.

LED “corn” lamp

These were replaced with LEDs resulting in a 75% power savings. As I mentioned, it is a work in progress, and I would like to add a second panel. There’s room on the roof, and that would double our capacity.

Mounting the panel

More Storage – A Trailer Tongue Box

Jim, May 17:

Bare trailer tongue

During the Big Bend trip, I started to think about refining our trailer and realized that storing jacks and other trailer equipment in the galley complicated our setup. A second storage area would make the galley more convenient and allow Marilyn to start our evening meal while I was setting up camp. I had seen boxes that mount on a trailer tongue, and thought that might be the answer. They aren’t hard to find, and I soon had one on order. Made by Better Built, and 34-inches by 19-inches and 18-inches high, it looked like it would just fit on our teardrop’s small tongue.

The new trailer tongue box

In hand a few days later, it looked great and didn’t weigh much — welded aluminum construction with a locking latch and power-assisted top hatch. Our trailer has a single rail for the tongue however, and it looked like the box was better suited to trailers with a “y” front hitch. Mounting the soft aluminum box on a single rail seemed like a problem — the first time it was leaned upon, it would bend. I decided to get some help from my friends at Vintage Motor to make a stout steel mount. Jason and I quickly decided to cradle the front and back bottom edges with 1 1/2-inch angle iron. These would be welded to other angle iron and attached to the 2 by 3-inch trailer tongue with bolts.

We set to work. After measuring the front and back box edge, Jason cut 16 and 34-inch pieces of 1 1/2-inch angle iron on a chop saw. By placing them under the front and back edge, we were able to mark the precise size and angle using a sharpie. Using these marks, he was able to trim the rails with a pneumatic cut-off tool, and round the rough edges with an angle grinder.

: Cutting support rails

: Does it fit?

: Removing sharp corners

Next, we cut brackets and holes and drilled them to accept the tongue bolts. They were then welded to the rails. There was one bracket per rail, and they were placed so that the rails would be centered on the trailer tongue with a bracket on each side. Finally we drilled four holes on the long rail, and two holes on the short one to mount the box.

: Cutting brackets

: Brackets welded to rails

: Nice weld

: Second bracket welded

Rails and brackets complete, it was time for a test fit. Everything seemed to work, so I set about drilling bolt holes into the trailer tongue. This is very tough steel, and it took awhile — even with the help of my grandad’s 1/2-inch drill. Now we could bolt the rails on, and set the box into them. Last, we drilled holes from the bottom, through the rails, and into the box. It was secured with six bolts as well. We’d had to “fudge” the fit to straighten to box and allow for lid clearance with the trailer, so the front rail was a little off-center. A trip back to the shop to adjust it’s length, and we were ready for paint.

: Drilling mounting holes in the tongue

: My grandad’s old drill

: Mounting the box to the rails

: We’ll make an adjustment to this rail

Now painted, it was time for the final installation. To protect the bottom from being dented, I’ll cut a piece of plywood to fit the inside. The box size seems proportional to the trailer — a lucky break. I was also pleased to see that the diamond plate on the trailer matches the box, both in pattern and rising to about the same height as the diamond plate on the trailer. Looks like a custom fit!

: Rails painted and installed

: Thinking inside the box

: Now for the box

: Finshed installation

How We Planned the Big Bend Adventure on the Teardrop Trail

The 2004 Road Master Atlas, guide books, maps and brochures.

As Jim and I had discussed our next trip on the Teardrop Trail, Big Bend came up in conversation. In 2006 and 2007, I had worked onsite at the Lajitas resort, located on the Rio Grande between the Big Bend National Park and the Big Bend Ranch State park. The office was in Austin and we flew back and forth to the resort for meetings, but I had never seen the parks. What a cruel tease. So close and yet so far. Big Bend remained on my bucket list.

At last, our time had come. I love planning trips. It is like putting together a multi-dimensional puzzle. I had heard that it was a very long drive from our home at Roy Creek Ranch. Fueled by wanderlust, I began looking for options with the 2004 Road Master Atlas that had accompanied Jim on his many excursions around the country complete with velcro strips to secure the book to the dashboard of his pickup. It had showed us the way during our earlier trips on the Teardrop Trail.

For me, old habits die hard and my addiction to research that had begun when I studied art history in graduate school was alive and well. So to the Internet! I began to search in all the obvious places – state and national park websites. Other websites from organizations like Texas Beyond History, the Virtual Museum of Texas Cultural Heritage, The Texas State Historical Society, even Facebook and others. I found information on routes, campgrounds with hookups, hikes, tourist attractions, canyons, rock art, ghost towns, cafes, art galleries and much more. I began to use Google maps to determine possible routes and mileage.

I picked up a Texas State Park Guide and finally located a deluxe, 100% waterproof, plastic National Geographic Trails Illustrated map of Big Bend which unlike the Internet maps provided an overview of the entire area I could put in my pocket. Guess some of us still like to hold a map in our hands.

Madeline, a friend from college has volunteered in Big Bend for many years. We invited Madeline and her husband Jimmy to join us for lunch and planning session. From scenic drives to hikes, they provided valuable tips as only insiders can including an update on the wildflowers. One of my fellow Master Gardeners, Carol, also provided a list of favorites from past trips as well as Road Guide to backcountry dirt roads of Big Bend National Park.

As the departure date approached, all the details came into focus and reservations were made. Armed with the trusty 2004 Road Master Atlas and my copious notes, I hopped into the co-pilot seat of The Lady as the navigator and tour director. Jim started the engine and we began our adventure on this installment of the Teardrop Trail.

Kitchen to Go – Road Food

Marilyn, June 14:

I love to cook! I was a chef at a dude ranch and have been responsible for cuisine on many long distance backpack trips. Now it was time to create a new version of a moving kitchen. I had seen a variety of galley configurations in teardrop trailers that ranged from the highly customized with many built in niches to house everything, to a rear hatch covering a simple space. Ours was the simple space so it was time to become very creative. I started rounding up suggestions from the blogs of dedicated RVers as well as full time teardroppers. One blogger’s words echoed in my mind – being in the middle of nowhere is not the time to forget the can opener or have wine and no corkscrew. Another blogger warned not to forget the practical things like rubber bands, duct tape and super glue. We found a Coleman camp stove, soft-sided sink, a folding rack to hold it all then tried it out in the living room.

Trailer kitchen in the living room.

Some of my backpacking equipment and skills came in handy since storage was at a premium. Finding the necessities – the smallest knives, nifty gadgets, cutting boards, measuring spoons and bowls – that could be used for several purposes. The ability to pack and unpack everything quickly was also a consideration. Then I began to think about menus. Shopping in the bulk section was great. Small plastic bags took the place of bulky bottles. I began with two plastic boxes with lids (you’ll discover why the lids are important later) and began organizing, nestling utensils, dishes and all our other accessories. We recycled two other plastic totes with fold-over lids for larger items. At last, we were ready for meals on wheels and it was time to hit the road.

Utensils and Supplies – a place for everything

Pots, Pans and Wine Glasses

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