Author Archives: Marilyn

Photo of A Hoodoo in Big Bend Ranch State Park

Big Bend Ranch and the Hoodoos

Teardrop Trail Log: March 27, 2016

Photo of Purple Prickly Pear Cactus (Opuntia macrocentra)

Purple Prickly Pear Cactus (Opuntia macrocentra)

We bid Lajitas farewell and headed west through Big Bend Ranch State Park. The scenic El Camino del Rio (Farm Road 170) hugs Rio Grande River and winds 23 miles through the panoramic views of the Chihuahuan Dessert where sotol, ocotillo and mesquite dot the dramatic landscape. The rugged mountains, steep canyons speak to the region’s fiery volcanic history. The Purple Prickly Pear and Strawberry Pitaya cactus, ablaze with blooms, line the colorful limestone layered bluffs. Unlike the national park, the state park encompasses a network of open range cattle ranches, a nod to Texas of old.

Photo of sign at the Hoodoo Trail

The Hoodoo Trail

We stopped at a parking area for photo opportunity and a short walk on the easy trail overlooking a series hoodoos, weather-carved volcanic ash, along the Rio Grande. Hoodoo is an African word that refers to the strange animal shapes of the rocks that were said to embody evil spirits. We struck up a conversation with a friendly man from El Paso on the trail who was traveling through the park. He introduced us to his traveling companion, a small mixed breed puppy whose name was Dog.

We continued down El Camino del Rio to the former Spanish mission town of Presidio. An interesting aside – it is important to pay attention driving in West Texas. Not all routes are marked. Guess the locals know where they are going. We followed what we thought was our route in Presidio and the street came to a dead end. We weren’t the only ones to miss the turn. Our friend and Dog had gone down the same street. We waved and laughed, executing a U-turn. On to Marfa.

Photo of car and teardrop trailer

The Lady and the Ambassador wait patiently

Photograph of Lajitas Boardwal

Lajitas

Teardrop Trail Log: March 27, 2016

My first trip to the Big Bend area came when I had been hired to work on the marketing team for Lajitas. The name is Spanish for “little flat rocks” and refers to the Boquillas limestone of the region. The office was located in Austin, but we would fly into the far West Texas resort for meetings. Sadly, we were working and not sight seeing. The only view I had of Santa Elena Canyon was a marketing photograph. This trip was my chance to see the Big Bend country.

Lajitas, twelve miles west of the Terlingua Ghost Town, had consisted of a trading post and an old cavalry post that was used as a hunting lodge. It had been bought by Houston business man, Walter Mischer in 1977. The scruffy, Old West-style resort was best known for its beer-swilling mayor, a goat named Clay Henry. Mischer had turned the town, into a modest resort with an Old West boardwalk, cheap hotel rooms, a nine hole golf course, and an RV park anchored by the 65-year old trading post became known locally as the Courthouse of South County.

Photograph of Lobby at Lajitas

Lobby at Lajitas

In 2000, Austin-telecommunications tycoon Steve Smith bought the town at public auction. Smith’s vision was to transform Lajitas into the Palm Springs of Texas and it was christened The Ultimate Hideout. Fast forward to 2007, the property was sold again.

We stopped General Store that has moved down the highway from the resort and is now home to the new mayor Clay Henry. The postcards I found that seemed familiar. They were from the time I had worked there.

Road Trip Eats

Teardrop Trail Log: March 27, 2016

We got a recommendation on where to camp with our teardrop and checked into Big Bend Resort and Adventures in the Study Butte Terlingua area, just outside the national park. The Cafe, which is open seven days a week, reminded me of so many places I’d eaten, like the Java Junction Cafe in the West Texas town where I had gone to elementary school. Formica tables, melamine plates divided for the main dish and two sides, plastic water glasses and two flavors of Tabasco on each table. The first time we walked in the door, we were greeted by a symphony of aromas that brought back memories of home and family.

One evening, the special was chicken fried steak, a tenderized cube steak coated with seasoned flour, deep fried with a crisp golden brown crust. A Texas classic. The other option was steak fingers, chicken fried steak cut into strips. Our plates arrived, the steak was plied high on a bed of french fries, served with white, peppered country milk gravy. There were also Texas-style green beans on the plate, cooked to the “unique” texture and color like so many women in my family did. Yum…. We were so focused on the food that we forgot to take a picture!

Photo of biscuit and gravy breakfast

Breakfast with bacon, eggs and biscuit with white, peppered, country milk gravy.

The next morning, we decided to check out the breakfast buffet. While waiting in line to use the toaster when we spotted biscuits. Not the doughboy’s biscuits, but the light, flaky good ole comfort food fantasy biscuits. We left the buffet line for the table with bacon, scrambled eggs, biscuits and the white, peppered milk country gravy like my Mamaw used to make.

Ah, comfort food on the road!

Photo of Santa Elena from the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive

Exploring Castolon En Route to Santa Elena Canyon

Teardrop Trail Log: March 26, 2016

We entered Big Bend National Park and drove down the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, a 30-mile paved road to the Castolon Historic District on the banks of the Rio Grande. The views were amazing. Santa Elena Canyon came into view as we drove toward the river.

Photo of Alvino House, Castolon, Texas

Alvino House, Castolon, Texas

In the early years of the Twentieth Century, people began to farm and ranch in the area. In 1901, Cipriano Hernandez irrigated the bottomland, grew crops and operated the first store in the area out of his  home. The building, known as the Alvino House, was named for Alvino Ybarra who lived there with his family from 1918 to 1957. It is the oldest known adobe structure in Big Bend National Park.

The Mexican Revolution raged in Mexico and many families fled across the border until around 1920. The violence brought the U.S. military to defend the border. Numerous camps were established by the National Guard and the Air Corps established a landing field at a nearby ranch. Originally known as Camp Santa Helena, construction of a permanent post at Costolon began in 1919 but by 1920, the Revolution was over and the buildings were never occupied.

Photo of La Harmonia, Castolon, Texas

La Harmonia, Castolon, Texas

In 1921, the La Harmonia Company Store moved into the new barracks building and served as a store and post office. In 1961, the National Park Service acquired the store and a park concessioner continues to operate it. The visitors center is also located in the historic building. It is still the center of activity in this part of the park.

The parking lot of La Harmonia overlooks the Alvino House below while Santa Elena Canyon beckons in the distance. Even so, this view doesn’t prepare us for the Canyon.

Photo of Alvino House with view of Santa Elena Canyon

Alvino House with view of Santa Elena Canyon

Volunteers in the Park

Photograph of Chisos Basin Visitor Center

Chisos Basin Visitor Center, NPS Photo/Ann Wildermuth

Teardrop Trail Log: March 24, 2016

Whenever we go to a national or state park, we like to check in at the Visitors Center or Ranger Station to find out the status on trails, campsites, roads, events and other interesting things. We stopped into the Chisos Basin Visitor Center on our first full day in Big Bend. The exhibits on the peregrine falcon, black bear and mountain lion provided more information on these species’ lives in the Chisos Mountains. The Center also includes Big Bend Natural History Association bookstore and restrooms. Backcountry camping permits can be issued from the Visitor Center.

In addition to rangers, the Center was staffed by enthusiastic volunteers who have broad knowledge on many topics, helping visitors with a wide range of questions. Madeline, one of my college classmates has been a park volunteer and was recognized for contributing many hours of service to Big Bend National Park.

Photograph of Chisos Basin Map with recent bear and lion sightings.

Chisos Basin Map with recent sightings.

Big Bend has diverse habitats with more than 450 species of birds, 75 species of mammals, 56 species of reptiles and 11 species of amphibians. The Chisos Mountains are a popular nesting site for migratory birds, as well as for bear and mountain lion sightings. Studying and managing wildlife is a key activity in the park. Both the volunteers and rangers track a number of sightings through wildlife observation reports filled out by visitors. On the wall of  the Chisos Basin Visitor Center was a map updated with black bear sightings.

I guess we’re not in Kansas any more.

Photograph of Black Bear in Big Bend

Black Bear Sighting in Big Bend

How We Planned the Big Bend Adventure on the Teardrop Trail

Photo of road atlas,maps and brochures

The 2004 Road Master Atlas, guide books, maps and brochures.

As Jim and I had discussed our next trip on the Teardrop Trail, Big Bend came up in conversation. In 2006 and 2007, I had worked onsite at the Lajitas resort, located on the Rio Grande between the Big Bend National Park and the Big Bend Ranch State park. The office was in Austin and we flew back and forth to the resort for meetings, but I had never seen the parks. What a cruel tease. So close and yet so far. Big Bend remained on my bucket list.

At last, our time had come. I love planning trips. It is like putting together a multi-dimensional puzzle. I had heard that it was a very long drive from our home at Roy Creek Ranch. Fueled by wanderlust, I began looking for options with the 2004 Road Master Atlas that had accompanied Jim on his many excursions around the country complete with velcro strips to secure the book to the dashboard of his pickup. It had showed us the way during our earlier trips on the Teardrop Trail.

For me, old habits die hard and my addiction to research that had begun when I studied art history in graduate school was alive and well. So to the Internet! I began to search in all the obvious places – state and national park websites. Other websites from organizations like Texas Beyond History, the Virtual Museum of Texas Cultural Heritage, The Texas State Historical Society, even Facebook and others. I found information on routes, campgrounds with hookups, hikes, tourist attractions, canyons, rock art, ghost towns, cafes, art galleries and much more. I began to use Google maps to determine possible routes and mileage.

I picked up a Texas State Park Guide and finally located a deluxe, 100% waterproof, plastic National Geographic Trails Illustrated map of Big Bend which unlike the Internet maps provided an overview of the entire area I could put in my pocket. Guess some of us still like to hold a map in our hands.

Madeline, a friend from college has volunteered in Big Bend for many years. We invited Madeline and her husband Jimmy to join us for lunch and planning session. From scenic drives to hikes, they provided valuable tips as only insiders can including an update on the wildflowers. One of my fellow Master Gardeners, Carol, also provided a list of favorites from past trips as well as Road Guide to backcountry dirt roads of Big Bend National Park.

As the departure date approached, all the details came into focus and reservations were made. Armed with the trusty 2004 Road Master Atlas and my copious notes, I hopped into the co-pilot seat of The Lady as the navigator and tour director. Jim started the engine and we began our adventure on this installment of the Teardrop Trail.

Preparing to hit the Teardrop Trail again!

Electric Travel Refirgerator

Electric Travel Refrigerator

Marilyn, March 19:

When we got the teardrop trailer, we started to look for ways to take some of our favorite foods along. Most people know the hassle traveling with an ice chest can be. Looking for ice in some remote areas can be extremely frustrating. On one of our shopping trips, we found this amazing little fridge. It plugs into the cigarette lighter in the back of the Mazda but does have an adaptor for a wall outlet. We carry many things that normally live in our home fridge. It’s a great way to prepare a lunch for the road. As we get ready for our Big Bend trip, we are getting the little fridge ready for to go.

Just one warning – unplug it from the cigarette lighter when you stop in the campground. It can plug into shore power. We found out the hard way that this little wonder can drain your battery when I failed to disconnect it. Makes for an unpleasant surprise in the morning. It is also not the optimum way to meet other folks in the campground.

 

Road Food Eats

 

camp stove with Balsamic Chicken

Balsamic Chicken serves 2

  • 2 boneless chicken thighs
  • half of a yellow onion
  • 2 garlic cloves
  • 1 cup sliced Baby Bella mushrooms
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 cup Balsamic vinegar or to cover chicken thighs
  • salt and pepper to taste

We enjoy taking some of our favorite entreés on the Teardrop Trail. Here are some tips:

  • Freeze the chicken thighs and add to your ice chest or travel refrigerator. This helps conserve ice.
  • Find small bottles of your favorite olive oil and Balsamic vinegar. Measure for the recipes you plan for your road trip and transfer to small plastic bottles with tightly fitting lids to conserve space. I like square plastic bottles because they are a better fit in our kitchen boxes and less likely to rattle. I save plastic bottles for a variety of uses on the road.
  • Buy only the quantity of herbs and spices you will need for each recipe or for your entire trip in the bulk department. Use the small plastic bags to save space.

Thaw the chicken thighs and pat dry with paper towels. Chop the onions and garlic. Place the olive oil in a skillet and simmer until the onions are clear. Add the chicken thighs and brown over medium heat. Add mushrooms to skillet. Cook until mushrooms are tender. Add the Balsamic vinegar, spoon over chicken and mushrooms. Simmer until the vinegar bubbles and thickens and chicken thighs are done. Salt and pepper to taste.

Place two thighs on each plate and cover with thickened Balsamic vinegar sauce. Garnish with parsley. Serve with rice or cooked pasta.

Serve with your favorite Cote de Rhone or other red wine and toast to the next adventure on the Teardrop Trail.

Road Trip Eats

Dairy Queen, Stratford, Texas

Dairy Queen, Stratford, Texas

Marilyn, June 24

What’s a road trip without road food – right? We drove across the flat landscape at the top of the Panhandle and pulled into Stratford, just a stone’s throw away from the Oklahoma line. The water tower and the massive bank of grain elevators, called the tin man and silos dominated the skyline and across the highway was unmistakable sign for DQ, a comforting sight in the middle of nowhere. Dairy Queen held special memories for me. As a child in Eldorado, Texas we used to pile in the car and go for soft-serve cones during the hot summers. Jim pulled into the parking lot, we opened the door and indulged in the familiar sights, sounds and tastes. In addition to the DQ menu, there was Orange Julius, another memory from childhood. Decisions, decisions, decisions. Ahhhh…..

 

 

… And the Rain Came.

Marilyn, June 24:

Camp Palo Duro in the Rain

Camp Palo Duro in the Rain

The sky turned from overcast to a full-fledged downpour as we finished breakfast under the canopy. Water started to collect and reshape the shelter. It was time to break camp and pack up as puddles collected around the campsite. Each time we pushed up on the canopy, large amounts of water ran off. We had to disassemble the kitchen as quickly as we could. Stashing the stove in the hatch. The two plastic totes with fold-over lids I had used for condiments and larger items had filled with water. We folded the wet chairs and forced them into stuff sacks. Wet items were thrust into garbage bags. As we loaded the trailer with all our wet gear, it became apparent that we needed a plan to deal with rain. We did our best to dry off and hopped in the Mazda to depart.